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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

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Nice update and interesting read.

Love how you solved tatras' steering, it is just like on the real vehicles. Well done:thumbup:

  • 1 year later...
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I kind of forgot I had this thread and it took me some time to find it, but here we go :laugh:

Anyways I'm thinking of building a 1:8 Ford Raptor with 42110's wheels and Claas's wheels, something in the scale, complexity and quality of TLG official supercar.

This will be a longer, more inticrate project with a lot of rebuilds and versions, because I want to improve my designing skills, especially the extterior paneling ones.

What I would like to have is:

Relastic suspension - independent in front, live axle in the rear

8 Speed paddle shift gearbox + D/N/R shifter + Hi/Lo shifter

Detailed V6 enigne and bay

Removable body - on - frame construction

Detailed interrior with 5 seats

If possible a working winch and lights powered by PF

 

I expect such a model to have somewhere around 5k + parts.

What do you think of this idea?

  • 4 months later...
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So I have managed to import a 1:8 and a 1;10 scale model of Ford Raptor into LDD and 1:10's wheels are a perfect fit with the Unimog tyres and 42110's wheels!

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1:8 on the other hand... Even the biggest, Claas tyres are too small

 

Edited by Zerobricks

  • 11 months later...
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I wish I would have more time to create more MOCs and videos, but unfortuentely I have been busy a lot lately and to be honest I don't feel as inspired as I once was... Maybe I'm having a bit of a dark age, who knows...

Anyway I did manage to make a video of the gearbox concept inspired by the following thread:

In order not to hijack the before mentioned thread, i decided to post the video of the gearbox's concept here:

Secondly I also got an idea on how to use the new differential as a central differential with a high-low selector and the central lock.

The upper differential acts like a 28 tooth clutch gears (no bevel gears inside) and the lower one acts like a normal, central differential.

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When the central diff is in the high gear, it's unlocked. When moved to the low gear, one of the outputs is coupled to the drive gear, effectively locking it (as shown in the image).

So yes IMO the new differential has many uses as a 28 tooth clutch gear, though having a dedicated 28, 24 and maybe even 12 clutch gear would be ideal.

Thanks for sharing this.

I would love to have clutch gears with 12 and 24 teeth; 28 is a little less useful in my view but I wouldn't turn it down.

Clutch gears with 12 teeth aren't possible in the normal 1u wide format - not enough meat between the clutch and the teeth. I guess it could be done wider (so the clutch sits besides the teeth instead of underneath them) but TLG doing that seems even less likely than them implementing 24z or larger clutch gears.

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Just now, pleegwat said:

Clutch gears with 12 teeth aren't possible in the normal 1u wide format - not enough meat between the clutch and the teeth. I guess it could be done wider (so the clutch sits besides the teeth instead of underneath them) but TLG doing that seems even less likely than them implementing 24z or larger clutch gears.

I realize that, but you could combine a 12 tooth clutch gear and the ring gear extension into a single 2 stud long part. I'm also a bit bummed they didn't put the clutch gear recepticle in the red 28 tooth gear of the new differetnial, there's plenty of space for that.

2 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

I realize that, but you could combine a 12 tooth clutch gear and the ring gear extension into a single 2 stud long part. I'm also a bit bummed they didn't put the clutch gear recepticle in the red 28 tooth gear of the new differetnial, there's plenty of space for that.

Agreed on both counts.

3 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

I realize that, but you could combine a 12 tooth clutch gear and the ring gear extension into a single 2 stud long part. I'm also a bit bummed they didn't put the clutch gear recepticle in the red 28 tooth gear of the new differetnial, there's plenty of space for that.

I actually made myself a custom 12T clutch gear exactly as described. I'm not really sure why, though, since I've never really used it, and now I have two fewer pieces to use!
Dang, you're right! We could have easily had a 28T clutch gear!

8 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

 Maybe I'm having a bit of a dark age, who knows...

 

In my experience if you're struggling on any project just start an either completely bonkers or impossible side project. There are two ways I have experienced this going: either you manage to make this side project, or you realize how futile it is and come back to your main project with a new urge to complete it. This has worked for me, as it helps sometimes taking a break from a model. For example, I have taken a break from building my MC20 and have started a simple rc truck. Try and see if this works. Otherwise, good luck on the raptor project and all the other BuWizz stuff! 

  • 8 months later...
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I've been quite busy building professionally lately...

...But I managed to find some time to show this amphibious model I built for the BuWizz camp's cancelled amphibious competition.

I also changed the video structure a bit, so I'm actually now showing my face (:pir-cry_sad:) and talk more in detail about the model instead of using so much text. Please let me know if you prefer this way of presentation of the models, or do you prefer less personal way with more text?

Anyway back to the model, as stated in the video, this is not yet a final version, I still have some issues regarding water leakage and steering to solve, but I think it's a good tets model regardless. I will do my best to release updates as I develop the model further.

Zero, really like this new style and actually prefer this over the previous one. Howevr, text on screen will always be a powerful format.

MOCwise it is one great step forward! Just wish the vulnerable electronics get to protect with something more stylish than plastic in future

  • 2 months later...
  • Author

Was browsing old folders and found lots of unused footage of my first successful offroader which used brick-built portal hubs.

So i decided to edit it together and to creake a From The Archives kind of a video:

 

It's great to see some nice old stuff from the time when I was sleeping :) I like that you made some proper live axles back then with built portals, I was always curious of a good solution for that part, and now I could check it in this video. Even the weight distribution of that chassis looks good with the battery and motors in the middle. Cool stuff!

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4 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

It's great to see some nice old stuff from the time when I was sleeping :) I like that you made some proper live axles back then with built portals, I was always curious of a good solution for that part, and now I could check it in this video. Even the weight distribution of that chassis looks good with the battery and motors in the middle. Cool stuff!

Thanks for the support, my friend. I actually feel like rebuilding that model just to compare the progress over all the years side by side!

  • 5 months later...
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Decided to make my first alternate of the 42132 set, a propeller plane with a working fake engine. If all goes well, I might come up with even more alternates from this set, they are really fun to make!

Here's a quick video presentation and a building tutorial:

Lego Digital Designer file link:

https://bricksafe.com/files/Zblj/42132-alternate-sets/42132-alternate-1---propeller-plane/42132 Alternate 1 - Propeller Plane.mp4.lxf

  • 2 months later...
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Took a few hours to create a showcase my biggest, heaviest and most functional battlebot that was made for the 2023 ROLUG winter competition named Octan(e).

Since the rules placed the mimimum weight at 2 kg, I saw an opportunity to fill the bot with as much power and functionality as possible. In the end I gave it not only a motorized ramp, but rotating wheels which are used to transfer the opponent's weight onto my bot, thereby giving me a traction advantage in the battle ring. Since the super soft drive wheels and tyres from 8448 are the tallest point of the bot, it can drive even when flipped over. Finally the bot is made to be mechanically as strong as possible, utilizing a lot of interconnected frames and simillar building techniques. Even though the entire model is built out of only 1395 pieces (slightly less than the 42154 Ford GT), it still ended up measuring a massive 40,5 x 32,0 x 8,0 cm and weighing a bit over 2 kilograms.

More info in the video below:

 

  • 5 months later...
  • Author

I guess I will continue the Rolug theme and showcase my models that I built for the 2023 Rolug summer competition:

 

First model is a mini racer built for the... well mini racers competition,

Features:
- Rear wheel drive driven by 2x PF L motors
- Steering controlled by a PU L motor
- Powered by a BuWizz 3.0
- Brick-build fake V8 engine
- Opening doors
- Built out of 530 pieces

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I placed the BuWizz in the front to try keep the weight evenly spaced on both axles, but unfortunately, the car keps oversteering and spinning out under power in the slippery corners.

Placing weight more towards back might help, but I suspect it would cause it to underteer a lot. In the future I will make such racers AWD for best possible traction.

 

Second model is a mini trial truck, in this case a 4x4 pickup with pendular front suspension.

I managed to cram everything into a really compact and robust form factor, thanks to the use of the Mini Angular Motor for front steering

Features:
- All Wheel Drive driven by a single PF L motor
- Steering controlled by a PF small angular motor
- Pendular front suspension
- The sides can easily be opened to access the BuWizz 3.0 which powers the model
- Built out of 339 pieces

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I'm really happy with the performance with this one, it's fast, robust and quite manueverable. I also learned that it seems balloon tyres migth be more suitable on hard surfaces comapred to these small and hard tractor tyres.

 

Third model is a utility Terrain Vehicle with AWD, suspension, working steering wheel, fake engine, and manually tiltable bed.

Features:
- All Wheel Drive powered by 2 PF L motors
- Steering powered by a PF servo motor
- Fake inline 3 cylinder engine powered by the rear PF L motor
- Steering wheel connected to the steering mechanism
- Independent suspension on all wheels
- The rear bed can be opened and tlted to dump
- Powered by the LiPo battery and controlled by a PF V2 receiver
- Built out of 777 pieces

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I'm really happy how well it performed, especially the fact it's powered by the LEGO 8778 LiPo battery box, which has very low power output comapred to the BuWizz.

 

And finally the 1:12 scale 90's Japanese style inspired drift car

Features:
- Rear Wheel Drive powered by 2x BuWizz motors
- Steering controlled by a PU L motors
- Fake V6 engine powered by 2x BuWizz motors
- Steering wheel connected to the steering mechanism
- Independent suspension on all wheels
- Openable gullwing doors
- Powered by a BuWizz 3.0 positioned in the very front
- Built out of 1027 pieces

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Unfortunately simillar to the mini racer, the model turned out to eb too hard to control on slippery floor, so next time I will probably upgrade to AWD with independent motors for front and rear drive for best control.

 

All the model files can be downloaded here, but you need to use the community updated LDD with collisions disabled:

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Zblj/rtxp-2023

 

As for the competition I somehow ended up second, which is much better than expected. But what matters to me most was to spend a very good time with my Romanian friends, to learn and to be active in this awesome community.

I love these small models as well! There's a great challenge in cramming all that stuff into a small space, and you have some nice tricks in these models!

How did you find the performance of the mini angular motor for steering off-road? I also bought that motor, but after initial testing it seemed quite weak, so I have not yet built anything to test it properly on real rocks. Was it strong enough for you to turn the wheels in stuck situations? Also, you power it with Buwizz 3, but it's meant to be powered with 7.2V system as far as I remember having read. Isn't that a problem on the long run? Are you running it on 100% power?

  • Author
7 minutes ago, gyenesvi said:

I love these small models as well! There's a great challenge in cramming all that stuff into a small space, and you have some nice tricks in these models!

How did you find the performance of the mini angular motor for steering off-road? I also bought that motor, but after initial testing it seemed quite weak, so I have not yet built anything to test it properly on real rocks. Was it strong enough for you to turn the wheels in stuck situations? Also, you power it with Buwizz 3, but it's meant to be powered with 7.2V system as far as I remember having read. Isn't that a problem on the long run? Are you running it on 100% power?

Thanks for the praise.

Regarding the Small Angular Motor, it works great for this model due to the very low weight and large steering arms. The motor has it's own internal clutch gear to keep it from overload which is triggered if blocked at full power. But since I'm using a Center Steering Module with a Light preset, there have been no issues so far. Also it's usually the current that kills motors, not the voltage and that can easily be limited in the app.

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