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Posted

I've been doing some test runs with a train I am working on, pulling 5 kinda heavy cars. While it seems to run fine on straightaways, when it hits a curve, it slows to a crawl and stops with the wheels spinning like crazy. The driving wheels are 4 Big Ben Bricks XL wheels, being powered by a geared down Power Function Large motor. I've tried putting regular rubberbands on the wheels and it slightly helped, but they just slip off and don't quite give it the traction needed. There isn't much room in the space above the wheels to add weights due to some wacky SNOT work and the motor/gearing sitting there.

I came across this thing called Bullfrog Snot. Has anyone tried it on LEGO trains? It looks like it might do the trick to get this thing running, but wanted to see if anyone had any experience with it before I drop $20-30 on this small jar of goop.

Posted

I am not sure I am familiar with Bullfrog Snot. What I have done to help traction is using O-rings on the regular train motors I am sure there is a bigger ring to go around the wheels, and if they are to thick you could shave them down.

It be much easier for us to help you with a picture of the loco and what you have tried!

Good Luck!

-Railco

Posted

I am not sure I am familiar with Bullfrog Snot. What I have done to help traction is using O-rings on the regular train motors I am sure there is a bigger ring to go around the wheels, and if they are to thick you could shave them down.

It be much easier for us to help you with a picture of the loco and what you have tried!

Good Luck!

-Railco

I did see the thread here about cutting a small groove into the wheels and using an o-ring, but from what I saw at the local hardware store I didn't see any o-rings that would be suitable, they were all a bit too small (that and I really don't want to risk damaging the wheels while cutting the groove into them).

I do have a work in progress image of the loco here from a few months ago (yes it's really wacky, it's from a Mario videogame). The front and rear sets of wheels are pivoted so it can go through turns just fine (even with tighter switching track). The rear wheels are Big Ben Bricks XL flanged wheels, being powered by a geared-down Power Functions large motor (which sits in the cab above the rear wheels). The engine on it's own runs fine, runs alright with three cars, but trying to pull all five cars is when it starts having slippage issues, especially in turns. Like mentioned in the original post I tried regular rubberbands but with not much success.

Posted

When I first read the thread title I thought it was going to be about using SNOT technique on a locomotive called "Bullfrog"… :/

I did see the thread here about cutting a small groove into the wheels and using an o-ring, but from what I saw at the local hardware store I didn't see any o-rings that would be suitable, they were all a bit too small (that and I really don't want to risk damaging the wheels while cutting the groove into them).

I do have a work in progress image of the loco here from a few months ago (yes it's really wacky, it's from a Mario videogame). The front and rear sets of wheels are pivoted so it can go through turns just fine (even with tighter switching track). The rear wheels are Big Ben Bricks XL flanged wheels, being powered by a geared-down Power Functions large motor (which sits in the cab above the rear wheels). The engine on it's own runs fine, runs alright with three cars, but trying to pull all five cars is when it starts having slippage issues, especially in turns. Like mentioned in the original post I tried regular rubberbands but with not much success.

If you're in the US, you could try ordering O-rings from McMaster-Carr; I've previously picked up replacement drive bands for 9V train motors and Lego L drivers from there.

Looking at your locomotive, couldn't you just power it through the two huge wheels, which already have tires?

Posted (edited)

Looking at your locomotive, couldn't you just power it through the two huge wheels, which already have tires?

I dont think the two huge wheels with tyres will be on the rails in the tight curves

Yeah this, they float over the rails on curves since (they only have tires becuase that is the only size LEGO wheel that is close enough for the scale of the train and still possible to roll along on the track. They don't have flanges on them to keep them on the track).

Edited by Yoshi648
Posted

I'd worry about something tacky picking up every piece of dust on the track and making your traction even worse. I'd recommend rubber bands or o-rings instead. My experience with the cheap rubber bands that kids make bracelets out of has been good. There are like 2000 in a $2.00 bag. They're really grippy but wear down pretty quickly (8-10 hours of driving). I had to replace them twice on my EMD I ran at Brickfair. They're so cheap it makes up for any negatives. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=rubber%20band%20bracelet

Plus, they come in variety of colors. I have a bag of black ones. They sell them basically everywhere, I got mine at a grocery store, but I've seen them at toy stores and craft stores too.

Posted

I do have a bag here of various types of rubberbands I got from the dollar store. The problem I have with them though is they are thick enough to throw the train off tracks when it comes to a curve.

  • 1 year later...
Posted (edited)

Sorry for bumping an old topic, but I just tried Bullfrog Snot and thought you might be interested in the results.

Having severe traction problems with my 0-8-0 when pulling more than one car, I temporarily used LEGO wheels equipped with traction rings on one tender axle. But LEGO’s large drivers have counterweights, so they didn’t seem appropriate for a tender chassis. Therefore, I looked for a solution that would provide more grip for BBB L wheels, and after some web searching I decided to have a try with Bullfrog Snot (although it is not easy to get in Germany). All I can say is that it works perfectly! I applied Bullfrog Snot to the wheels on the first tender axle only, and traction problems have completely disappeared. Besides, concentricity is much better than with LEGO’s somewhat bumpy O-rings.

Application is a bit tricky, though. Different sources suggested to use a toothpick; but I found that this would only work for N or H0 scale wheels, as you simply can’t pick up enough stuff. Instead, I used the square end of a match to get quite satisfying results.

To get an even surface, it is important to keep the wheel turning not only while applying Bullfrog Snot, but at least 15 minutes longer. I built this simple device:

640x426.jpg

In case that you should mess up something, Bullfrog Snot can be removed with warm water (as long as it hasn’t dried up) or with lighter fuel.

As a conclusion, I would really recommend Bullfrog Snot if you want to pull heavy trains on metal rails or through narrow curves (and I am not related to the manufacturer… :wink: ).

Edited by Tenderlok
Posted

I have some BB Large drivers I'm using on a MOC and I've been curious about using bullfrog snot. Is the material tacky or sticky after it dries and someone mentioned earlier but does the material collect dust or hair after it dries? These are questions I've had about using bullfrog snot on BB wheels and come to think of it LEGO steam drivers as well.

Posted

Indeed, it feels a little bit sticky when dry, and as a consequence, it gathers some dust when the wheels are running on dirty track. But that doesn't bother me much, for most of the dust can be wiped off - and a rubber ring would also collect dirt.

Posted

I've got Bullfrog Snotted BBB medium drivers on my S Motor, and the snot works pretty great (even though the S Motor doesnt...) I looked at it just now and all I can see as far as dust is small lines where it contacts the rails, granted it hasn't been run as much as some of my other builds.

I applied it close to a year ago and it's not tacky at this point. I remember it taking a bit of time to fully dry though.

Overall I definitely agree with Tenderlok about recommending it!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've used Bullfrog Snot on two of my engines now, and while it is tricky to apply perfectly it really does work wonders. One important thing to keep in mind - you only want to apply it to a single axle. Choose the axle that keeps the most consistent contact and carries the most weight. Because the Bullfrog Snot has such a good grip, applying it to two axles won't allow the wheels to slip enough to keep on track in a turn - it'll leap over the side. If two wheels just really won't cut it, I have found you can Snot a single, third wheel without any worry.

As far as whether it works better than the lego O-rings, I'm not too sure. I haven't compared them side-by-side, but it seems pretty even to me. The biggest difference I think is that the o-rings will lift your wheels up a big further from the track than the Snot will. With the groove already in the LEGO drivers, I'd probably personally just go with the O-rings.

Posted

As far as whether it works better than the lego O-rings, I'm not too sure. I haven't compared them side-by-side, but it seems pretty even to me.

I found that the LEGO O-rings don't have a constant cross-section, so that the entire wheel gets out of roundness - with the consequence that the engine runs quite roughly. With Bullfrog Snot, this is much better (only when it is applied evenly, of course).

Btw: This pneumatic thing looks mighty impressive!

Posted

No, that should be fine. The rear engine on my Mallet has the back two wheels plus the front right wheel Snot'd, and it has no problems. It was only when I had all four with the bullfrog snot that the problem cropped up.

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