How Do You Secure Tracks to Baseplates?

[kasmca]

I'm just getting started with trains and have a basic question. What do most people do about securing tracks to base plates? Do you secure it directly to the base plate? Do you add a plate between the track and the baseplate? How do you deal with non straight tracks? Do you add tiles under there or keep it uneven? Thanks. Sorry if the is a noob question.

[WesternOutlaw]

As a brand new member to EB, why not try introducing yourself first before asking questions. I generally like to know who I'm talking to, as do other members. You might also try reading this which will help explain.

[tedbeard]

As a brand new member to EB, why not try introducing yourself first before asking questions. I generally like to know who I'm talking to, as do other members. You might also try reading this which will help explain.

Would it have killed you to link to a thread or an article somewhere that answered his question? How stupid of anyone to think that a forum labeled "LEGO Train Tech" might actually be a place to find the answers to questions related to running LEGO trains! We should know that "LEGO Train Tech" is a social forum where "getting to know people" is the most important thing.

If I received such a rude reply to a polite query I'd probably never come back.

[kyphur]

RailBricks (railbricks.com) has info on ballasting your track.

[Eskallon]

Indeed Tedbeard is correct in this case.

Kasmca, heres a few pictures of MOC's which might help you:

Its not much, but as you can see in the first example the builder made a layer of stone/rock to support the track and add detail. However in the second picture they were placed straight on the baseplate. I would recommend you trying different things out and seeing what you like best but it seems possible to place them onto a baseplate straight away to me.

[Andy Glascott]

Hi and Welcome.

It is possible to fix tracks directly to base plates, but only the straights. The best bet is to put a single plate between the tracks and the base plate with tiles under the curves for support. If your corners are all 4 track lengths long you can stick the end to a plate to stop the whole lot moving around. This keeps all the tracks on the same level.

Andy

[Legobrandon]

For curved track you could use these:

Bricklink Catalog Entry

OR

Bricklink Catalog Entry

OR

Bricklink Catalog Entry

-Brandon

Edited January 23, 2012 by Legobrandon

[Piranha]

Would it have killed you to link to a thread or an article somewhere that answered his question? How stupid of anyone to think that a forum labeled "LEGO Train Tech" might actually be a place to find the answers to questions related to running LEGO trains! We should know that "LEGO Train Tech" is a social forum where "getting to know people" is the most important thing.

If I received such a rude reply to a polite query I'd probably never come back.

I agree especially since tones are hard to determine in text.

But any how I was trying this myself the other day making a little forest area for my trains to go through with mountain goats and cypress trees , I found that on PF at least it was somewhat noisy and friction was being caused I could hear the studs scarping or something as the train went over the base plate. I am not sure if more baseplates would help because I don't have many on hand but I think some of the other suggestions are pretty good and I am going to try them myself.

[WesternOutlaw]

Kasmca: sorry if my response to your questions may have seemed unwelcoming - it wasn't my intent. Many new train builders ask questions here and we've a got a great train community that like to help. I do; however, ask all new members to take a little time to introduce themselves. This helps us to get to know you and likewise. We're also flooded with a lot of kids that have a habit of posting more silly questions. Introductions help me better identify these members from our AFOL as most of our less mature visitors do not take the time to share any additional information about themselves. I appreciate you introducing yourself in the "Hello, My Name Is" forum - thanks.

Would it have killed you to link to a thread or an article somewhere that answered his question? ... If I received such a rude reply to a polite query I'd probably never come back.

But rather, you choose to search out topics like this to provide your constructive criticism. Do you have an answer to his question or a link? I'd ask that you please send me any future suggestions relating to my management of Train Tech in PM so that we may discuss your concerns.

[Legobrandon]

I did a quick Google search and found this link: http://archives.indylug.org/blogs/jkyle/archive/2007/06/18/NMRA-2007-Prep.aspx It is a little complicated, but if you have the skill, time and pieces you may want to give this a shot.

Edited January 24, 2012 by Legobrandon

[Hinckley]

Hey guys. I just wanted to drop in and say that TheBrickster's response is a very common one from the staff. A couple of you have commented how the internet doesn't have the benefit of tone. If you look at his suggestion and remove your perceived tone, you may see he is encouraging someone to introduce themselves to the site. We do this a lot with new members and that's what we have always asked our moderators to do. An introduction thread is very beneficial to new members and to the staff to see what members intend to get from the site. TheBrickster works hard on this forum and he cares a lot about running it smoothly and getting people the information they're looking for and doing so in a fun and organized environment. He didn't close the topic. He didn't insult this new member. He simply introduced a new member to a beneficial part of the site. If you have a problem with a moderator's style, we're very open here to feedback, PM that moderator, please and try to open a dialogue. If you don't feel comfortable with that, PM me. If it's me you have a problem with, PM another admin. This is really an issue of helping us help you. Our staff has the best interest of Adult LEGO Fans at heart. Carry on and thanks to everyone who is helping out our new member.

[AndyC]

If you're just looking for a way of securing a permenant (or semi-permanent) layout, the sleepers do have a couple of holes in them where the pins they ship with hold them together. It should be relatively easy to fix the tracks down through those, which might be a considerably cheaper option than buying baseplates to cover your layout area. Dunno about anyone else, but I also hang on to the pins themselves as they're just the right size to clip into a minifigs hand and I'm convinced I'll find a MOCing use for them some day.

[kasmca]

Wow, thanks everyone for your great idea. After trying it out, I have come to the conclusion that while attaching the tracks directly to base plates is the easiest and cheapest, it gets troublesome when dealing with curves and track switcher. It cause the tracks to warp verticaly and makes the trains a bit less stable. I will try to save up and elevate the track. I really like those pieces that LegoBrandon shared. Hopefully my local Pick a Brick wall will stock those some day. In the meantime I may just use tiles.

Regarding the link to The Kyle article, all I can say is Amazing!

As for the moderator who asked me to introduce myself. No offence taken. I went ahead and posted in "Hello! My name is..." forum.

[WesternOutlaw]

As for the moderator who asked me to introduce myself. No offence taken. I went ahead and posted in "Hello! My name is..." forum.

Thanks for understanding Kasmca. Appreciate you taking the time to do so.

In regard to your question, I was trying to recall how I attached my last track layout (or at least one of them). I think I might have a few pictures.

Yes, here they are:

Here's the layout. As Andy pointed out, straight tracks attach pretty easily:

And can even be elevated by 1-2 plates per track:

If you've got a good solid attachment at the straights, you don't necessarily have to attach the curves (although the pieces that Legobrandon pictured works well for curves).

One other point I wanted to make is that if I attach a straight directly to a baseplate, I don't push really hard. They can stick pretty good and getting the tight fits off the baseplate can cause damage to your track - esp. with 9V track.

EDIT: Here's another picture of those direct baseplate connections:

Good luck and make sure you share your layout with us once you build it.

[Joepublic]

Hi

Does anyone have the photo of pf plastic corner track being attached to a baseplate.

Thanks

[Hinckley]

Can anyone point this new member out to a more recent thread devoted to track ballast?

Joepublic, be sure to stop by the "Hello, my name is..." forum and introduce yourself. Welcome to Eurobricks.

[ecmo47]

Here you go:

http://www.eurobrick...st#entry2325717

Edited January 1, 2016 by ecmo47

[AirborneAFOL]

I think some of us are quietly hoping Lego will eventually release a new generation of track that has curves designed in a manner that can attach securely, directly to baseplates... though nobody is holding their breath given how relatively recent the PF/flex track is and how low Lego seems to prioritize development of the Trains theme...