mrfuture

Another tip to the Hidaka design. Make sure all sidepins rolls well, inclusive the drive wheels /roll wheels (if any). Edit: Any designs with same type of sider roll pins. I may failed on the free roll wheels on my train at the event. I check tomorrow if losing up the free rolling wheels helped my problem. Edit 2: Checked the train and it looks like the problem i had was still there but looks like it is better than with some friction on the free roll wheels. The transjering cogwheel between motor and the actual wheel started to move sideways, melting so the cogwheel could not interlock with the other anymore.

I assume that the solid pins for keep the train on track works best with the Hidaka solution. For me it was a source of the problem for mye first try. The curves in Lego tracks is wrong for this solution.

I had taken of one of the plates to change the cable but insted i used it to make a special cable. The old system from the 70`s and 80`s you had screws on the connectors so it was possible to change the cable. It is not a 100% Lego part but made out of existing parts real parts. It is possible to remove the 9v connector but not as easy as the old connector. So i seldom take Lego apart. but here i had parts that i could use. The 9v cable was loosing its isolation on the cable so i see no harm to try to salvage that cable in take it apart.

You are right about the shoe. but i used the https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb53b#T=S&C=11&O={"color":11,"ss":"NO","iconly":0} insted for easy to connect the old power cables. The other one need another creative connection with the Light and sound electric bricks. to make the connection between the systems. I did that on my failed monorail in 2016. But found other solutions for the new train. It could be a weak point. . What we see in this group is the beauty of Lego. Everyone find their own solutions with the bricks they have and creative solution to make a monorail I started with just the yellow train to get the tracks and hopefully then the shoes . But it was not removable. so i bought some of the bb53 variations. Everything started with Reier back in 2014, that was my first event and Reier debuted with his hanging monorail, and my idea was born to build a on top moving train on the same track system. We hit a milestone this year. But we have more plans.

Here is a llink to a closeup on the curve https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5jCAWg_8Qt07Jb0w :-D yes you must be a trained Jedi master to get it work :-D May the force be with you! The connection system is the fun part. You have the old power connector shoe of the 70`s Works best with the bras one. with straight copplings for cables. Then it has to som way connect to a 9V type cable. I used a broken 9V with the brick type connector and removed the other end and put on a connector or just put the ends in one of the other ends that connects the two shoes with each other. Then you need a 9v to PF converter cable to connect to the motor to finnish of the 12V to 9V PF motor connection. https://1drv.ms/u/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5kJ1Z77b_eQOa9bg The picture is from my first prototype. IT will need some boggies at each end to make it stable to run But at least it shows the shoes and the motor setup. The basic is the motor idea in the beginning of this thread. No gluing or using of tape in this project. All original Lego parts Just creative use of parts. With this set you have a start. Then you need the old style connector shoes. The one in this set is not possible to remove. I failed on this. But you have the track mid power rail and a controller for power. and you need a PF motor. https://brickset.com/sets/7740-1/Inter-City-Passenger-Train-Set

The track it self is just 2 stud wide ( the old power rail on the 80`s train.) nothing more. Straights has Technic beams to support the track beside for the support structure that lift it into the air. Since the curves can not have brick structure under it. It need a support system that keep the curve intact. Here is where the 4 wide track part comes in. It is just for the supports so it keep the curve without falling apart. Not for the actual train track. Making something flying on the track will be hard. you need to balance it good. The Mayhem ship had the rail go through it. But why you need battery when you can have power from the track ? .

I was thinking about doing something inside but was afraid it will be to heavy so it will fall off in corners. Maybe the updated one will have it. Just the front has something. It is a leftover from the first train. The long track on the outside of the one i was running on is Reiers. He was there too with 2 trains and a spaceship on rail. Cool idea if it had worked. He had modified a General Mayhem ship to "fly" on track using the same method as for the train. In the end it did straights but had a few problems in curves. Structures of the corners is the same as the straights but connected to a 4 wide track 1/4 curve.

The 26-28 April was the moment of truth for my custom monorail system. From the total failure in 2016, was this a much better event First one was a cross bread between Hidaka solution and the Reier Pyttes rail system for his hanging monorail. Here is RR 5 (RR = Reier Rail to honor the creator) We also work together to make a standard for both type of trains. Running of the old 12v system I still got a few bugs to iron out. Need to check the status of my train when i get it home. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AsnCfgQB7ShSib5i9s74g88Fv91OiQ

A Small update on my second version of my custom monorail running on 12V. Actually it is an idea (i presume) from Reier Pyte. Who is in my LUG At my first event in 2014, he had a hanging monorail. Then the idea was born to try to make one that run on the track. One total failure in 2016, made me go back to the drawing board. The recent version is more stable than its previous one ever was. So it looks like it going to work. We talking about making a system out of it. Here is an early picture of the train.

Wow that looks great. I hope my crossbread of an Monorail get better this time around. It is based on two different system. But will reveal in time.

Thanks, Helps a lot. Even when I'm now building rest of the system for the motor.

Someone i know made a moving, roaring dragon out of that set, with additional to the Boost set.

It could be that i try to turn it by hand on a short axle. But i think all works out when i place the motor on the top. the axles runs free. Is it only tiles under the motor ? The Motor is locked in place by the "couplings" ?

I thought of that but did not see anything that caused the problem. But have now removed one tire and put the black gear on a tan pin w/axle. What i noted that everything was run fine until i put on the axle with the tires, I think it is the friction between axle with tire and the black gear. What length of the axle on the motor ? 2L

Here is a closeup picture of the gears . having 2 more wheels is due to my design. I may reveal the the design later.