Beck

It's also very important to mention that your design won't actually work IRL. LDD, allows headlight bricks to be placed next to other bricks with the stud facing inwards; however, IRL the stud extends beyond the brick by a very small margin. This means that you would have to file down the stud to make that connection work or find a new solution.

@aFrInaTi0n Thanks! I was able to set it up.

Can two motors connected to separate ports on a Buwizz 2.0 be controlled by a single slider on the app?

Very cute! It reminds me of my BRIO trains from my childhood.

Well, you should probably start a separate WIP thread for this specific model, so you can share your progress. If you're building digitally I would start with some basic dimensions. The class 9 (given a scale of 1:45) is 61 studs long and 8.25 studs wide. And the carriages are going to be even larger: probably 10 studs wide. It's going to be very difficult if not impossible to: 1. build proper suspension on each bogie 2. be able to navigate R40s 3. have a trailing rear bogie Given your R40 track, I would abandon the bogie suspension altogether. I would power the first and last bogies with the middle bogie linked to the front bogie. A trailing bogie would hinder your ability to pull carriages through curves and switches. You might want to even consider moving to a smaller scale and decrease your width to 6 or 7 studs. Don't get me wrong it's totally possible to build at 8 wide. The locomotive is on my Flickr page, but I haven't taken pictures of the middle bogie suspension and drive system.

Well, I thought I might as well update this thread as I build it IRL: During the digital design process, I seemingly could only find pictures of the real locomotive from one side/orientation. It was only after I started building IRL and spending more time looking at more pictures did I realize that both sides, were the same. I had assumed the locomotive was symmetric across its length, but this was ultimately not the case. I mean, why would I assume otherwise... I'll have to paint the LBG wedge plates blue very shortly. I hope I'll be able to find a blue paint that matches TLG's blue close enough.

Would eurobricks count as: Fan Media 15.If you follow any LEGO Fan sites, do you know if are they Recognized LEGO Fan Media?Required to answer. Single choice. Yes, they are recongized No, they're not recongized I follow fan media but don't know if they are recognized I don't follow any fan media

Thank you. Good to hear that it might be of use to your future builds. What locomotive are you modeling? I have not built this specific model IRL, but I have built another locomotive with the exact same axle arrangement. On that model, every axle was powered and the middle axle had a working suspension system. I wasn't able to include that in this model since this one is a bit smaller which translates to less space inside. This model is quite simple: the middle bogie is attached by a single link that has turntables at each end to the body of the locomotive. Since the link is 11studs long between the two axes of rotation it has a bit of vertical "play" on top of the horizontal displacement.

Thank you! The cabs were the only difficult part of the build, the rest was quite easy. Yep!

Apparently the wedge plate I needed to finish the roof was a new part as of 2020. Now that I don't really buy LEGO sets anymore, I don't check for new parts that often. The specific part isn't available in blue yet, but I'll probably just paint. I'm going to use some electrical tape to finish the angles to the side of each door. I couldn't make it work with any sort of slope brick or wedge plate. I still have a bit of detailing to do, but the overall shape of the model is somewhat complete.

Yeah, usually I can come up something, even if it's kinda bad, but with this one I'm just outta ideas. Judging by the number of replies, I think I've stumped the EB train community too.

Hello everyone! Well, I've been working on my new EF210 model, and everything so far has turned out pretty well, but I cannot seem to get a realistic roof shape that I like. The roof on the right is the simplest and least realistic, whereas the right one has more realistic proportions, but has some gaps and isn't as smooth. Although its shape certainly isn't as smooth as I would like it to be. I could really use some ideas because I don't know if I can make a roof that fits the model well enough. The length of the roof is 5 studs and the height should be around 1.7 studs. Here are some reference photos if you're so inclined: http://kitekinet.jp/pen/mae/EL/EF210-302.jpg http://kitekinet.jp/pen/EL/EF210-116.jpg https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/b/bc/JRF_EF210-137.jpg

Hello Everyone, I'm currently finishing up a model and wasn't quite sure if I wanted to include a small detail. That got me thinking; do you ever choose to omit a detail from a model out of personal taste or preference? I guess this question is only really relevant to those who try to replicate specific trains rather than those who design purely from their imagination.

Interesting idea, but I think the design is kinda weak. The 1x1 technic brick is not well secured on the frame and as @Duq mentioned the half inserted technic pin is not a great connection. I came up with a stronger design (4L bogie). https://bricksafe.com/pages/Beck/ideasexplained If you want to improve your design, I'd at least recommend using 1x2 technic bricks for the technic connector in the middle as it won't fall out as easily as a 1x1 technic brick. You could also use the small rings from the lord of the ring series on either side of the technic connector prevent it from sliding side to side.

It's finally done! The 3D printed wheels were painted light bluish gray to match the the bogies. Thread was used to attach the brown tubing atop the locomotive to the round 1x1 plates. To continue the white and gray stripe around the front of each cab, I used thin strips of electrical tape.