Schneeds

I'm pretty confident people don't get burned out on good, quality content. I'd watch shows like Andor every day if I could. I know all my friends would too. But shows like Obi wan and Ahsoka insult my intelligence and I can't even watch them, much less support them. I can't speak to whether or not Lego Star Wars is waning, but there is absolutely no denying that media franchise doesn't have anywhere near the power it did in 2015.

Thought I would post here and bring this to light for people who haven't seen it. I recently finished the build and have some thoughts. Firstly, this is a stunning display model once assembled. It has a lot more presence than you would think 5,000 pieces would allow for. Dranac did an impressive job designing this thing, and with Onecases' modifications it is very polished and on that level of quality you'd expect from his work. This is now one of my favorite models. Second, building this is not for the feint of heart. It is not an easy build. At all. I say this as someone who has built the Oncecase Executor, Rasko Aggressor, and Psiaki X-wing. This was harder than those. While it is 'modular', it is not a simple matter of snapping things into place or pulling them apart. The instructions also leave something to be desired. The way the modules are ordered makes it essentially impossible to build. It is also very easy to mess up the orientation of the spine, and if you do that... you are screwed and have to redo the entire thing. So I will give the following advice if you chose to build this: 1. Start with the first module as outlined (rear stand/engine structure). Build modules 1-4 as planned, and make sure to attach module 4. Then build module 5 but do NOT attach it, 2. Go to the 'spine' module at the end and build that. MAKE VERY SURE YOU HAVE THE PROPER ORIENTATION. It is very easy to be off by a 1/6th rotation or so. Make sure the wider top and bottom sections of the spine are at 90 degrees inline with the + axle . 3. Go back and start building the modules in order with #6. When you get to the front strut and super structure you are going to have trouble with the stacks. It is inevitable and you will probably have to remove pieces and maybe swap in some tile pieces because getting the studded plate pieces to fit will require massive pressure and risk. 4. Once you're building the upper super structure framing, stop once you get to the point where have the four 1x2 bricks with axle opening blocks and the four 2x2 tile with upwright technic pin pieces; this is around page 224. This is where the spine connects to. If you keep going there is no chance in hell you will be able to simply snap the bridge into place. 5. At this point with the insertion points exposed on both of the super structures, install the spine into place. Assuming you have the axles lined up properly, you should be all set and you can attach the rear roof and then proceed with building the rest of the front superstructure. Attaching the front panels is somewhat difficult. I recommend assembling the hinges first since they require so much pressure and either attach them to the technic frame or the panel and then install. If you follow those steps it will make the build a lot more enjoyable and the result is well worth it. I can also confirm the sand blue substitution looks great. Lastly I forgot, you can substitute this ball joint in for this one easily and save money.

I think it depends on what your interests are. For me personally, other than Andor and Rogue One, I absolutely despise all of Disney's content. I build exclusively UCS models; either heavily modded Lego sets or custom ones from the talented designers here on the forum. That doesn't leave me with much to collect at this point, outside of doing alternate versions of what I already have. On the one hand it feels bad. On the other, I only have so much space so maybe it's for the best.

That is stunning. If I didn't know better I would say that is work by Onecase. That's about the highest praise I can bestow.

Yep! https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/188478-ucs-75313-at-at-modding/&page=3&tab=comments#comment-3521597

One of his original ISD's was about 6,200 parts. It could be that. If it is I'm screwed because I don't have the space, but it would look so good next to the Aggressor it would have to be built :/

I finally freed up the time for this project. I also substituted sand blue for the green parts like Frizzle did as the wedge prices are insane. Made a fair number of other substitutions to newer versions of parts which I don't believe will be visible or change the appearance and brought the price down a bout $300 all in all. Hopefully it goes well.

A new Onecase model with 7k pieces!?!? Please let it be an OT model. THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME. As is the fact that I'm going to have to come up with space to display whatever it is.

God I love it when a masterclass build just bursts onto the scene completely out of nowhere, especially when it's something as iconic as the MF. This is world class. The exterior is on par with MB's, maybe even a bit better for my personal tastes. It has a look of real grit to it, while still having perfect lines and curves. Like you just stole the prop from the studio archives. The only thing I would consider altering is the black grills in the engine vents. They look a bit too blocky compared to the rest is so perfectly sculpted. Just my two cents :)

I was going to give this a 10/10 but I don't see a parrot or monkey. Seriously though, this is fantastic.

That's some serious competition in the creature bracket. Any one of them could have been first place. I love the wolf though, great tribute to Rebels.

Why has Lego not put these into a book for purchase yet?

I don't know why no one is really interested in modding this one. It looks night and day different with relatively straightforward exterior mods.

I don't have any instructions. Basically I just rebuilt the top two levels of plates; first using 4x8 wedges which I think you have to buy used, and then the top by alternating the new 2x4 tile wedges with 2x3 wedges. Then did the same for the bottom. Before you put the plates back on, add plates to the rear of two technic beams that make up the frame to span the gap with 2x3, 3x3 plates etcetera, so that you have the foundation for securing the 1x2 jumpers that you will put the 2x plates on for the greebling base. There's a fair amount of trial and error building the plates because all the hidden support plates have to fit with in the frame, but overall not too difficult.

About a thousand tiles later... This set is a great foundation to work on, and the stability really is worth the sacrifices.