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Instead of starting a new thread I figured I would just post here. @diegobaca has made a few custom software solutions in the past for the DACTA Control Lab, well he's at it again. This time you can interface with the Control Lab using a Raspberry Pi Zero W (or other models) and control the motors through a web browser. This has to be one of the smallest footprints required to use the Control Lab. I'll link his website below which has everything you'll need to try it out including a bill of materials. The parts required shouldn't cost much, the Raspberry Pi Zero W sells for $20 (From Amazon In the US, subject to change over time). I've created a video showing a quick overview of the steps to get it going and a couple use cases. In the video I talked about how much power the Control Lab can provide, I should have tried using a beefier transformer as that did help a lot with the GBC layout. There's more to share there but I may start a new thread, especially if I end up making modifications. Diego's website https://controllab.io/

Incredible work @Toastie You won't see this anywhere else!

In the description of the most recent tutorial there is a link to wire that works just as well from AliExpress. I've used it for dozens of wires and found no noticeable difference. The trade off is it takes a lot longer to arrive but is cheaper. I've also added a link that someone sent me for UK Amazon. I'll add the links to this thread but the video may have more updated links in the future. I talk to a lot of folks in different places about repairing wires and the video description is the first place I update. If anyone has links for another country lmk and I'll gladly add them. Always glad to hear folks are getting their wires repaired!

That's kind of the issue, when you snap the connector together is when you find out if you have a good connection. I don't use glue often so I don't have a suggestion except for I wouldn't use something that would seal super quick in case you need to try again.

I'm really excited for the electronic offerings. I love the modular approach for the speed regulator. I have a fair amount of 9v track so I've never been able to justify the cost of FX track. But the electronics stuff... I NEED all of it . Anyone who knows of my work knows my obsession with custom Lego control panels . Very excited to see previews of these products, hoping the track contacts will be less than $50 which is what degraded ones on eBay go for .

I remember trying to get Robolab working years ago but was never successful. After using the official Lego DACTA Control Lab software I've never had a reason to look back. If I find any info I'll be sure to pass it along!

In my testing 2, 3 and 5 were the only wires necessary. I'll include a video where I went through the troubleshooting of the RS232 connection (starting at 23:17). They were the only wires connected. Update on my non-functioning unit: One of my units refuses to connect to the official Lego software as well as 3rd party. It kept giving the same error over and over again (I think it just said unable to connect). I figured it wouldn't hurt to replace both capacitors (220uf and 2200uf) since they are so old. Now it just gives a checksum error. Not really sure where to go from here. I vaguely remember leaving one of my control labs on for several days controlling the lights on my Galaxy Explorer display but I can't remember if this was the unit. Also there is a bit of rust / corrosion on some of the screws and a couple places on the board. I didn't even notice at first it was so minor.

@LH4PI I think I've only had a problem with one of my interfaces not communicating, IIRC I just set it to the side and used another I had. So I really don't have much to add to the conversation for fixing the issue. One thing you can try is a test program (LEGOInterfaceB.exe) written by Tom Cook. It will work on modern operating systems (I've tested up to Windows 10) so you can try on another PC just to see if it works. Beyond that I'm really not sure what else to try

@LH4PI Just to make sure the cable is correct here's diagram. It can be very confusing when male and female plugs are used. It took me hours to wrap my head around it when I was using cat5 serial adapters. Very useful for long runs or in my case I had an old POS terminal with RJ50 serial ports. If the cable is correct there could be another problem.

2 to 3, 3 to 2 and 5 to 5

@LH4PI Actually it uses a male to female null modem cable, the hardest cable to find . I did find some on Amazon after a bit of searching

That's awesome! As far as the limited outputs I ordered PU and PF compatible plugs and made my own adapters. I used two PF connectors so I can have mirrored outputs. I used it in my Amtrak locomotive to have dual motors and a set of lights. I have a tutorial recorded, it should release in the next couple weeks. I will say the PF motors are not quite as smooth with the acceleration as the PU motors, but I think that could be remedied by making adjustments to the PyBricks code.

The updated Metroliner is a MOC I found on ReBrickable by Oninino. It looks fantastic! I don't think I ever posted it here anywhere but I did make a video showing off all of its features like opening doors etc.

Wait your wallet is lightening? I've been wanting something like this for a year and a half. There are probably posts here and elsewhere of me dreaming out loud about such a system back then. The @Pybricks team has done an excellent job, hub to hub communication is a real game changer. Of course @Lok24 and @and_ampersand_and are absolute legends for writing and modifying the program respectively. Programming has never been my strongsuit, it really speaks to the power of the Lego community to see something like this come to fruition! The double / triple headed trains are absolute pulling monsters. I've done some testing with inclines as well and it makes a massive difference. If you do make any more alternate liveries for the 10219 loco I recently bumped the thread here about that. I'd love to see yours @Toxic43!

Thanks so much for putting in all the work to create an English translation! It seems like shipping is quite expensive when trying to acquire the book in the US. I may just pick up the Kindle version to read on my PC along with the PDF. I'm assuming this supports the author about the same as buying a physical version? That's something I'm curious about, I always want to support in the best way possible for works such as this. If I find a good solution for getting the printed book imported I will share a link here. Cheers!