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About Corellian Corvette
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Lego Space
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UCS Falcon
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10497 Galaxy Explorer 90th anniversary set
Corellian Corvette replied to R0Sch's topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Funny note on that - they mention in the instructions that the color of lights are in the wrong place in the original model (red for front/green for back instead of red for port, green for starboard) but they decided to keep the lights in the original configuration. So not only are they there, but they make a point about how they are used. The manual for the ship is full of interesting trivia.- 535 replies
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10497 Galaxy Explorer 90th anniversary set
Corellian Corvette replied to R0Sch's topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Thanks for doing this! I just did a quick buy for these parts on Bricklink, and it was 3 stores. With shipping, it was about $58 in parts. So while you can save SOME money, seems like you might as well just buy another new set since you get the very cool printed space pieces which are sure to go for big $$ That said, if you have a big collection of parts, this is super useful so thanks again!- 535 replies
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10497 Galaxy Explorer 90th anniversary set
Corellian Corvette replied to R0Sch's topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
Awesome news! Thanks!!- 535 replies
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10497 Galaxy Explorer 90th anniversary set
Corellian Corvette replied to R0Sch's topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
It's a heck of a good deal, for sure. And you may be right. Still, hopefully someone does these models in LDD then we can figure it out :)- 535 replies
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10497 Galaxy Explorer 90th anniversary set
Corellian Corvette replied to R0Sch's topic in LEGO Sci-Fi
So as I'm looking at the two alternate builds, and I'm wondering how many additional pieces need to be ordered to build 918 and 924 from one 10497 set. Let's say I want to build BOTH small ships - I don't think there are enough pieces in 1 set to build both, but it sure seems like there would be enough left over pieces to build both with some additions. Hopefully I'm asking the question properly - It would be great to see a parts list for both the small ships TOGETHER, subtract what's in the 10497 set, then come up with a parts list to supplement so you don't have to buy 3 full sets to build all 3 ships. Thanks!- 535 replies
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Not sure if this is the right forum - I'm wondering if anyone has the line-art or background art that's used in the new Lego packaging - it was used for UCS packages but now I see it on the normal ones as well. It's the pattern of lego bricks that's behind the text in the headers. Anyone know where to locate that art? I want to use it for some MOC instructions I'm working on. Thanks!
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Thank you but I must always, always give credit to the original designer Clayton Marchetti who built the original version back in 2018. He's does incredible stuff https://www.flickr.com/photos/10130710@N03/ There were no instructions or guides for his build, so I had to use pictures to come up with something that could be built. And of course, I had no idea what the inner structure looked like. On top of which making actual buildable instructions, etc. took A LOT of time. I've been absolutely obsessed with this and have never really stopped making tweaks/improvements. When the KO Yamato was released, a lot of people were building it and giving me suggestions for improvements, and of course the availability of new parts in new colors over the last few years have helped as well. So by now, both models are really about as good as I can make them thanks to new parts and feedback from builders. By now, the 2199 Model has drifted pretty far from the original in many ways. They look similar but share only about 1/2 of the parts (mostly the outer hull parts), and that's after incorporating a lot of the improvements for the 2199 version back to the original build. And yes, this is 100% flying around the house approved! That was ABSOLUTELY mandatory and my 6yo fly's it around the house all the time. I've been considering creating some sort of techinc "handle" somewhere because the structure is super stable and strong, but you do have a lot of little wings on the bottom that make it hard to find a good hand position.
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Within the next few days I'm going to release two new MOC's of the Space Battleship Yamato and consolidate some of the confusing things I did around stands, colors, etc. Going forward I will only have 2 MOC's. I know quite a few people have built the Chinese / Vonado / AliExpress Yamato which was created as a set using "compatible" bricks (although with quite a few unfortunate color changes). I was seeing a lot of interest in that build, but it prevented me from making changes which I'd been working on over time, and I decided it's time to retire that MOC and update with new parts and some new build techniques. I've also spent a bunch of time on the manual this time - I really wanted it to feel like a "real" Lego set. So with that, very soon there will be two new MOC's up, and as always both will have free instructions for download (I'm waiting for them both to be approved so I can retire the existing ones and link to the new designs) Space Battleship Yamato 2199 This is an nearly complete re-build and if you're going to build only one, build this one. It's so much better than the original in terms of detailing, proportions, rigidity, etc. It's just better in every way, although it's going to be a bit pricey and comes in about 500 pieces more than the old MOC (but it includes the stand!). For anyone who build the original MOC (or has the Chinese KO) I'm going to make a parts list available to be able to "upgrade" from that build to the new 2199 Version. It will shave quite a bit of $$ off the build to buy the bootleg set and complement with new bricks, although I always encourage people to build using all original bricks (there are some parts like the minifigure hands and lettering from the stand that is way more cost effective to just get the bulk parts) https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/apenello/space-battleship-yamato-2199- Star Blazers Argo (1970's version) There are actually differences between the ship in the 70's anime and the new update (and lots of changes to the ship over the years) and the last MOC was sort of a mix of different designs. In this case, I kept the sleeker, smaller MOC and updated it with a bunch of new techniques (a *lot* of changes to the interior structure make this much more rigid) and optimizations to the instructions to make the build a little more fun. This build is simpler, cheaper, with less pieces. I still think this looks great, and it's cheaper to build so I'm keeping the older build going and making it more of a "retro" ship model. https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/apenello/star-blazers-argo-space-battleship-yamato-new-for-2021 Here are some side-by-side renders showing the differences in the two ships. It's hard to show in pictures but I'm really happy with the detail and proportions of the 2199 version. Feedback is always appreciated! Thanks!
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Not sure if this is feature, bug, or other. But I accidentally imported an .LXF model into Stud.io instead of the .LDR that I was trying to open. I noticed that a printed piece I was using (2431p52) which is a 1x4 tile with the "Warning" pattern was placed. However, when I tried some other models with printed parts they didn't come in. Any idea why this happened or if there is a subset of parts that Stud.io recognizes? Thanks!
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With LDD support gone, I need to re-train myself to start using Stud.io for my models. I'm starting with taking some of my existing builds and moving them over, and trying to re-create groups (submodels) and practicing making instructions. There are some things in LDD that are just so *easy* from a usability standpoint and how LDD uses groups seems to be more intuitive. For instance, my models are all built with groups which is how I organize sections for instructions. I can see in Stud.io how to take a group of bricks and create a submodel. But, for the life of me, I cannot figure out how to add individual parts INTO the submodel once it's created. If I don't get EVERY single piece I wanted in a submodel the first time, there does not seem to be a way to add it. Let's say I've grabbed 49 pieces and created a submodel called "Stand". However, I forgot 1 piece. I cannot simply click on that piece and "add" to a submodel. And if go into the submodel, parts from the main model are transparent so I can't grab that piece from inside the submodel either. Dragging the piece from the step list doesn't let me put it in the submodel folder either. So I'm stumped. The way I build is that I basically start with an overall form, then break into submodels as I near completion. But I can't figure out how to mimic that workflow in Stud.io. Any advice?
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Thank you so much for doing that. I *really* appreciate it. It worked perfectly, and I now have all the bricks I need working great in Blueprint. I'll continue to add parts and see which ones are "safe" I'm not sure about the 2nd comment - if that's directed at me or not - but again I do TRULY thank you for fixing that piece.
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@M2m I just downloaded and used the new script and it took about the same amount of time (1213 seconds) as the old one. Strange. I sent @jester a note about the part thank you. I currently use 2x 24201 now for all my builds in LDD. As with all things Lego, it's functional but not quite right in the same way that 2 1x1 plates don't always work to replace a 2x2 plate; there are just some cases where you need it to be connected. I've also found that when I create instructions and I have a lot of them in a row, it's hard for me to tell which ones are supposed to be singles and which are doubles so creating the instructions have been frustrating. It totally does work and I've been using it, but there are a couple of pieces that would make the build and instruction process a little easier. Also, again, THANK YOU so much for doing this work. I do think this script + Equilibrium's discovery around creating the parts will really extend the life of LDD!
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OK well, unfortunately the part that's causing the vector error is 32803. I have confirmed that both 36840 and 36841 appear to work fine! @Stephan or @Equilibrium do you know who the author of 32803 is? Is this a relatively simple fix to make it work properly with Blueprint? By the way - THANK YOU all so much for your help and patience answering my questions. I've been on a bit of a MOC spree lately and appreciate the help trying to get these new parts to work. EDIT: 198782 (Wheel Rim 11 x 18) also works!