yoyoseby_97

So, I've made a mini experiment. Some important things before I tell you exactly what and what. This is my first technic set....the biggest and most complex one...my other lego sets are 2nd generation bionicle....and skyline architecture sets...so small sets...what I wanted to experiment is to see for myself how these gears work and since I don't have lego motors to hook up and see the pistons moving like probably most of you guys did....I had to appeal at this old fashion...which yeah probably it isn't that accurate but....better than nothing: https://www.flickr.com/photos/188882501@N03/shares/Y63LYH So what I did exactly: 1) I built the first box, but with the minimal changes that I could do from the errata without using new pieces (I didn't want to unbuild my bionicle), meaning that I replaced the pin in step 5, I used @Attika's solution and lastly I switched step 267 with 269 (gear sequence fix) and I tested the car and indeed it still had a lot of friction especially in gears 3 and 4, meaning that I needed to do the entire errata build if I wanted to see a difference 2) I though to myself (let's try the stock version, it couldn't be that bad) so I rebuilt the first box exactly as in the instructions and...just hear me out please: The gearbox works perfectly....I have no friction at all...and the speeds actually work correctly. The pistons don't move right...that's true but the gear speeds are in the right order. That's what I found out with my slingh shot experiment. I put a duct tape line so I would pull the sling shot equally everytime...when the pistons move the slowest, aka how the 4th gear should be in reality but in this lego technic this is the 1st gear....the car went the furthest....almost hit the wall.....then in the second gear...when the pistons move 2nd faster (aka 3rd gear on pistons speed), the car travelled significantly less distance then the first gear, moving to the 3rd gear, the car travelled again less then the second gear...but no significantly, and again in the 4th gear when the pistons move the fastest...the car travelled the least amount of distance...tho it was very close to the 3rd gear.....I've redone the test 3 times....and everytime....it worked perfectly....1st gear = the farthest, 2nd gear = close to 1st, 3rd gear = close to 2nd, 4th gear = close to 3rd. I pushed the car in the band, I pulled the band and just put the car in front of it, I have tried different variations of "sling shooting" the car, and each time it worked normally. (I have locked the front wheels so it would go straight forward) Now I know you people might say that...this doesn't prove anything, that this isn't math which I've seen you've already done with the gear ratios, but...it's a practical test, that for me at least (unless I'm dumb and got the conclusion wrong in which case I would like you people to point it out to me), proved that the gearbox works how it should work (besides the reverse 4 gear part you know). I mean, yeah the pistons are wrong....but you guys, testing the gearbox by looking at the pistons (I'm assuming this because I dunno how else you figured it out that the gearbox is flawed) tells me that the problem is with the pistons alone and not the gearbox. I mean if I build the full car...the pistons aren't visible anymore...and I switch gears...I happens what it should....car's wheels turn easily, than a little bit harder and harder with each speed I switch, which is in fact what it is supposed to do. I know that probably the errata fixes the pistons and keeps the gearbox intact and has less friction and so on, but for someone who doesn't have technical parts to spare and also don't wanna buy other pieces, I think the gearbox works just perfect. If anything, you guys have some spare time and are bored, try this testing method, see how the vehicle works not how the pistons move, and see for yourself (again tell me if I'm wrong) that the stock version of the gearbox does what it's supposed to do...I mean...with the sequence....the reverse and the 1-4 4-1 jumps are not normal but hei....it's a toy after all. Another test could be to build some sort of ramp, let the vehicle go from the same height and see how far it goes. I've done this one because that's what I had around at home but I assume that the ramp test would actually be more accurate.

Well, I will built it stock first and if I'm not pleased at all with how it performs, I guess I'm gonna have to buy the extra parts...

Well, you could tell me, when you have some spare time, which steps in your errata are achievable without adding pieces, I ask this because besides the obvious steps that I can see have no parts addition, I assume some steps are connected to each other....for example....there is a row of 1-2-3-4-5 steps....and steps 1-2 have no piece addition but 3-4-5 have piece addition...and I also cannot do 1-2....without 3-4-5 because they are connected directly....I hope i've made myself clear

Hello there, I have a bit of a situation if you guys would help me please, especially @Didumos69 So I have just bought the 42056 set, haven't gotten to start building it. What I use this set for...well mostly for display...but of course I have to admit that from time to time I would like to tinker with the mechanics, it's a technic set after all. I have been wondering around this site searching for some easy fixes for the "main" issues this set has, finding that errata and so on...and by issues I'm not talking about HOG or easy disassemble mod.... Here is what I actually want and how I got here in the first place. I saw in a review on youtube that the gear mechanism is wrong...gears go 1-3-2-4...and I started searching and found out a lot of other mini problems....mostly on this forum...what I want to do is to fix some of the most important problems...but without adding extra pieces....first of all I don't really want to MOD it...I want to keep it the way it comes in package...secondly, I can't even MOD it because I don't have any other technic sets....all I have are some architecture sets....don't have that much lego myself. I found that the errata shows precisely how to fix the mechanics of this car....but...it shows them as a whole....it says in the beginning a list of things...and then does everything combined.....my question is...could you guys point me the changes that can be made with the sets pieces...without adding anyting. What I've learned so far is: 1) To fix the gear sequence all I need to do is switch some gears in step 267-269...so no addition of any other piece here...right? 2) @Attika presented a simple way to stop the mechanism from jamming by rotating those two red pieces 180%.... 3) I don't know if I'm totally correct here but Blackbird suggested that just by removing a small pin joiner in step 5....there is significant less friction.... Are there any other quick fixes that can be made without adding new pieces??? I apologize if I wasn't supposed to tag people here....I actually wanted to send didumos a private message but for some reason I can't.... Thanks in advance and good work for the people who've done this.