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THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS! ×
THIS IS THE TEST SITE OF EUROBRICKS!

Krxlion

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Krxlion

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    DIY in all sort of things

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    Poland

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  1. Well presented and well deserved frontpage ;) I imagine for a small price and tons of functions, some kids would really beg their parents to have one. :D Great job, and keep up the good work, Ngoc!
  2. Regarding the tires, I've been using them for brushless crawler, and they work great. You can find them much cheaper on a popular Chinese site with foam already in wheels.
  3. Above quick demonstration of what I mean. The 20 teeth gear is the driving gear (by the motor), and rotation goes to gears below and their two drive shafts. As you can see in this scenario, the black gear has nowhere to go if it tries to skip, because on each side there are 24 teeth gear on a way. It's just a demonstration, but the concept worked on my several brushless setups.
  4. I have tested this exact simple gearbox with brushless setup. I was skipping gears a lot. For me, the trick to not skip gears in gearbox is simply having it supported one by another.
  5. I believe you meant XT30 (smaller version of XT60). I have recently tried them out, and they can hold 15A constant and 30A peak, but further studies on some Youtoube videos confirmed that they can hold even 60A for example for 10 seconds (but I don't see any Lego/Buwizz motors combo pulling that much :D).
  6. Really awesome progress and I can see that it is really well build thing! I would love to try it out, but as you are planning further improvements, I guess we need to wait patiently. :D I want to ask some questions, If I may: 1. Is geek-servo not fully rotating +/- 90 degree in your case, or were you not fully rotating the knob during testing in your video? 2. I guess you will try to sell your product in the future. How are you planning to distribute it with people, for example that have different transmitters and/or receivers? Would it be all in one package (RC box with receiver plus transmitter that you recommend)? 3. Are you considering building RC box with battery inside, so everything will be in one place (of course it will cover bigger space, something like 7x9x4 stud - similar to Lego Powered UP hub)? Once again, great work and keep us posted! :)
  7. If you fell rubbing, maybe the screws are too long, and they are touching the winding or the case of the motor. Also, the cable management of the motor can be bad and it is touching the rotating case. It's hard to tell to be honest. I feel like 1:36 reduction (two stages of planetary reduction) may be too much. With 1000kv motor, you will have around 300RPM at max throttle. You may consider having higher KV A2212 motor. Anyway, good luck with your project :)
  8. What a beautiful creation, my brother own that car 4 years ago. It was so light and happy to drive. I immediately knew what car is this that you are showing us. It's a pity original car didn't feature rear-wheel drive, it would make a great entry-level drift car like MX-5. :D Keep up the good work Nico, thanks for sharing.
  9. I've been there. If you turn on gyro function on DumboRC receiver it will shorten the movement of servo, simply to still have some "room" for counter-steering. :)
  10. Thanks for the kind words, they mean a lot to me. :) I have modified this model one month after publish or so, but I didn't put it here, as I was busy investigating G500 set and modifying it to work with RC gear. The modified version of this MOC used my 3d printed planetary mount for A2212, so I could attach it directly to the gearbox (which was modified), and I also put the motor more to the front, for better weight distribution. Sadly, the 3d printer case for all necessary RC gear (with battery, esc, receiver) still ended on the upper side of the model, and roughly in the same position. The model performed well, I have even shrunken the space between axles by two studs, but didn't finish the body (I don't like designing this part too much), and thus didn't finish this topic how I would like. Anyway, I am working on a new model, with very similar functions, but I want to tune everything before presenting, so it will not end the same as with this one. :)
  11. Great entry @FriedlS, it is always great to see custom-builds like this. :D I was afraid @NoEXIST not replying recently, especially during time when there were floods in Poland and Czech Republic - I hope you are alright. Back to the build, I assume this custom RC board is suited mostly for smaller cars, that do not draw much current, and uses not so power-hungry motors, right? Have you tested it already? :D
  12. I followed the dimensions from this video. I have also looked through some different sources of dimensions of Lego Technic bricks, and they are accurate to me. I am printing on Bambu Lab A1 mini:
  13. There is no reason at all. I was just messing with different options of reducing rpm of A2212 motor. I believe back then I used @janssnet method to insert motor shaft to lego connector (for CV joint it would work the same, and I used it that way HERE).
  14. There you go Viktor! You have reached the dark side of non-lego electronic, and now we have an evidence of it, haha. How do you like it? Are you gonna build from time to time your future models with this RC gear? I really like that you have put overdrive on front, it shows that you studied RC off-road cars, or off-road cars in general, great work! Regarding the chinese L-motors I heard they have good RPM, but very poor torque, like they took one stage from two-stage planetary setup in their housing, but I might be wrong, and you can correct me on that one. As always you made sure you pack your model in a nice body, which I really love. Don't worry about messy cables, I think that in future you will find solution to that as well. :) Really looking forward to your next build, I always know it will be something good when you publish your MOC here, great work once again! PS I forgot to mention that your 4-link setup looks great, the model has so much ground clearance thanks to it!
  15. I think I need a lecture regarding kingpin inclination, because to be honest I've never played much attention to that matter before. Mostly I was focused on achieving positive caster angle or ackermann steering, if a model would have anything from IRL cars/trucks. Your design seems already well planned and executed. I actually didn't think that recent wheel hubs don't work with portal hubs, I was quite surprised with this, and just yesterday I was happy that I have them, because they provide additional ground clearance to the build. Regarding printing your design, I think it will be hard to do so, it is a complex model and many things can go wrong. Anyway, thanks for sharing, I am really looking forward to this topic.
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