Posted January 7, 20169 yr Hi all, even if this probably doesn't draw anybody from the woodwork today in the age of the Arocs 42043 ;-), i have - inspired from the better performance of the Arocs crane - recompiled my full featured Unimog 8110 from 2014 (http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1964626 and some following posts) and eliminated some remaining weak points: - better bracing of the XL propulsion drive train (now 100% reliable without any crackling gears) - double airpump now mounted the two pumps with offset to each other so the compressor delivers continuously pressure within a turn - replacing the M motor with a L motor which fits perfectly into the same location - preserving tiltable cabin even with battery pack placed within the cabin... So i have decided to rebuild the Mog from the scratch and to document the needed modifying steps with detailled photos, s.b. link... some parts of the following text and pictures are just a replication of some other postings by me in the Unimog Modification Thread but because these posting have a somehow WIP character which makes hard to recognice the final solution i have decided to present the whole final stuff in an own new thread - so if someone searches for a full-featured Unimog-MOD it can be found at one location. @moderator: if you think that this doesn't deserve an own thread, please feel free to move/merge this to the Unimog modification thread - sry for inconvenience! So here is the writeup of all the new features and improvements integrated in the Unimog. Here is the complete overview of the new features / improvements: New features: openable doors and windscreen wipers working steering wheel 3-side tiltable bed with real loading gates with locking mechanism Remote control for driving and steering - and this feature preserves the working steering wheel as well as the 3-side tilting bed and also the fake engine below the cabin. Basic requirement is 100 reliable steering and driving - Motors and receiver are quite invisible from the outside and do not badly influence the appearance of the Mog. rear PTO pass through (with PTO driven trailer, sb) so rear PTO can used even when the crane and outtriggers are rear-mounted flashing beacons on the cabin roof - activated when driving Improvements: PF switch for for better operating of the functions-motor, so you have not to change direction with the battery switch (which is very annoying) Double airpump compressor incl. airtank for more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. Airtank gives you also more flexibility during crane operation because cause of the air reservoir you can simultaneously move the pneumatic stuff and turning the crane smoother steering by fixing some steering issues Better weight balance (the standard Unimog is not really well balanced cause of the heavy battery box on the left side) More motor power for the functions and the compressor by replacing the M-motor by a L motor --> really a big improvement, strongly recommended! Attachments: - some front attachments: 8848 style pneumatic scoop pneumatic front-loader, PTO driven mower, PTO driven street cleaner - 8063 inspired trailer with PTO driven bed and deployable stand Primary goal was adding all these features and improvements but not to change the overall appearance of the 8110 because IMO this is very very good. In addition all standard features like fake engine and tiltable cabin should be preserved. Also the basic design with the gearbox etc. should be preserved. So all new features should be integraded homegeneously and - in best case - invisible. At this final state of the Unimog MOD i'm quite pleased with the result because all goals have been reached - IMHO ;-) Important remark: Some of the integrated mods are not my own but have been basicly "developed and designed" by others people, mostly eurobricks members. See the credits at the end of the posting! Pneumatic driven bed which can be tilted to all 3 sides - including real loading gates with locking It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! . There were no instructions available but there exist a bunch of photos of both solutions so i could reverse-engineer the tilting mechanisms. Most important concepts are a rotary cylinder base (based on barman's solution) a flexible connection to the bed ((completely "stolen" from tripletschiee, a very simple and intelligent solution ) and a "sub-bed" which allows to unlatch one of 3 possible tilting sides (rear, left and right): For easier rebuild i have documented the whole stuff with many detailled shots - see links section at the end. For the loading gates (see photo above) incl. a nifty locking mechanism i found a very good inspiration from EB member stefan_betula_pendula. - in this posting i have already described all deatails incl. many photos: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1972050 Double offset airpump compressor with airtank A Double airpump compressor incl. airtank provides more lifting power and constantly high pressure during crane and attachment operation. The dual airpumps are mounted with offset to each other so the compressor delivers permanently pressure. Supported by the airtank the whole system now offers in each situation enough and high air power so the crane operation has now always enough lifting power and quite fast response time. This offset needs some more space so this improvement needs one quite deep modification of the chassis which can not be applied to an already build unimog: More motor power for the functions with a L motor The M motor can quite easily replaced by a L motor if the unimog is build from scratch for all this mods. This is really a big improvement and it is strongly recommended! Turning the crane or driving something with one of the PTOs has now much more power. For the new double pump compressor (s.a.) the additional power is also appreciated. But one Remark to the pictures above: better use a standard 24th gear instead of the shown clutch - the double pump compressor appreciates the full power (with a clutch something gets lost within the clutch when airtank is almost full and no pneumatic operation takes immediately place) - with i standard gear i never get a stalled motor but always full air power... RC for driving and steering incl. a working steering wheel Today all stuff has to be RC - and even i'm not really into it i saw the challenge to integrate RCing into the Unimog together with the tilting bed (s.a.) - this tilting bed prevents from using the typical solution be placing the XL motor for propulsion in the middle of the chassis - there is simply to room for it. After a lot of try&error solutions i finally managed an RC-solution which integrates very well and is quite invisible from outside (btw: thanks to EB member Pat Ard for his initial idea placing the XL into the original battery compartment --> battery has then moved into the cabin) drives without any crackling of gears steers as well and reliable as the direct-servo-solution-on-fron-axle (steers also very well when not driving!) - a return-to-center is really not necessary with such slow vehicles... preserves the full suspension travel of the front axle (with the servo mounted on the front axle the travel must be reduced by the height of a 1x2 plate to prevent the servo from colliding with the pistons of the fake engine (from below) has a working steering wheel has a quite invisible IR receiver Integration of the XL motor: Overall the steering-motor, the accu battery and the IR receiver can be integrated very well into the cabin - the cabin then simply has a typical center console (M motor), a build in refrigerator box (gear reduction for steering) and a tool cabinet (accu at the back of the cabin): One remark to the steering solution: Here the servo motor was not an option for me, despite the fact, that the steering performance of the servo is perfect when mounted direct on the front axle - as shown e.g. by EB member Pat Ard. But this solution allows no working steering wheel because it is simply impossible to connect a universal joint and the steering CV joint (cause of too steep angle and too short distance). Running the servo from within the cabin by driving the standard steering gear-train of the 8110 is also no solution because then the steering performance is somehow mediocre: the servo has enough power but IMO the steering gear train from motor to the rack is too long with too many gears involved so there is to much backlash - and because the servo can just spin a 1/4 for a full steering lock and because of very much friction caused by the big tires this 1/4 round of the servo is partly somewhere lost in the steering gear train... These problems can all be avoided with my final and very well working solution: Steering driven by M motor with a quite high gear reduction in the cabin performs excellent, but only with a double clutch gear (because only one is too weak for a powerful and fast enough response steering even during stop cause of the high resistance of the big tires): For the working steering wheel i have 99% applied the solution of tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin Openable doors they were inspired by the solution of EB member Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... Using a PF switch switching direction via battery box is always a pain --> therefore i have added a PF switch - IMHO quite well integrated (and nowhere stolen ;-) Fixing steering issues There are two problems which needed being fixed: a) better steering lock/angle: This can be done by replacing the 4 3/4 pins (DBG) by 4 1/2 pins (LBG). Removing the pins completely is not the best solution because then the tires can rub on the chassis when suspension is compressed and you will steer... b) making the steering easier - out of the box it is way to hard - this is not only cause of the high friction of the tires but also cause of 4 red friction pins involved. In addition the whole front axle has a strong bump steer. well, i have tried several solutions: - Nicjasnos complete new front axle: this one has by far the best suspension and steering and reduces the bump steer a lot. BUT: it looks to bulky and therefore the look isn't realistic for a Unimog... therefore i have discarded it after building, installing and testing - applying the full fix of Junkstyle Gio (http://www.eurobrick...1) which replaces all 4 friction pins with frictionless-replacements: this makes the steering indeed very easy but on the other side now each grain of dust colliding with a front wheel can change the steering angle...it's too easy.. Therefore i have applied only the half of the fix of Junkstyle Gio so its a mixture of friction and frictionless pins --> IMHO is the best compromise of easyness and stability for the steering and the look of the front-axle: Adding a PTO pass trough for the crane - switchable between turning the crane and passing through the PTO This enhances the flexibility of the Unimog a lot beause now you can add any PTO powered trailer even with back-attached crane. There is a switch which allows to switch between spinning the crane and runing the PTO pass-through. PTO 1 has same speed as the PTO of the chassis, PTO 2 is slightly geared down (12:20) This mod is not from myself but it is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved. Highly recommened! Thank you, dr_spock, for providing me some detailshots. Trailer with dumping bed driven by the PTO pass-trough This trailer is inspired by the 8063 Trailer and by a trailer made by EB member dr_spock (which is also the designer of the pass through PTO as mentioned above). In fact: It is the 8063 trailer with slightly wider bed, bigger wheels and ability being connected to a mechanical PTO. In addition the tilting still can be manually operated. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full power-gear train is completely my own MOD. The original 8063 trailer has a nice stand that can be deployed via a lever mechanism that keeps the trailer upright when it is not attached to the towing vehicle. I wanted this stand being preserved because it works well and it is simply necessary for a trailer with such an axle layout: Preserving this stand makes a it little bit tricky to integrate a well braced and geared down gear-train from the coupling to the LA-base but i succeded: Details can be found in this posting: http://www.eurobrick...00#entry1948575 Flashing beacons i ordered them by EB member Zmei_gorini4 (Kirill) - they work perfectly and look very good - IMHO they are worth the price...good job, Kirill! More details can be found here: http://www.eurobrick...25#entry1976100 Links to many many detail shots: Modded chassis: Building the modded chassis from scratch with all the following new features integrated: 3-side tilting bed, XL motor for propulsion (RC), L motor as replacement of the original M motor, double offset mounted air pump, preparation of airtank mounting plus hose guidings and covers for both motors (XL and L). Rear axle is 100% original and front axle has only applied the known steering fix for smoother steering movement and greater steering lock (s.a.). Of course in both axles you must switch the gear ratios vice verca in the portals (with 8:24 the Mog drives very well)! You can rebuild it with the photos found here http://bricksafe.com...ll-mods/chassis together with the original BI of the 8110. Modded Cabin: Detailed photos how to integrate RC steering: http://bricksafe.com...ontrol/Steering Detailed photos of the working steering wheel: http://bricksafe.com...l and PF switch Detailed photos of openable doors: http://bricksafe.com.../Openable doors Because these 3 mods have been done at different states of the Unimog modding there can be some inconsistences between some photos - build carefully together with the original 8110-BI because these 3 cabin mods slightly influence each other! Flasing beacons: http://bricksafe.com...lashing beacons Rear PTO pass-through: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...TO Pass through Trailer with tilting bed driven by the PTO: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...Unimog/Trailers - together with the original BI of the 8063 trailer you can easily rebuild it. Front loader attachment: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...ts/Front Loader 8848 style scoop: detailed photos can be found here: http://bricksafe.com...pneumatic-scoop PTO driven mower and street cleaner: Photo instructions can be found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Inspirations and credits: New features: openable doors were inspired by the solution of Pat-Ard but slightly improved by adding a second hinge so now the doors are guided very well and stable... For working steerng wheel i have 99% applied the solution of EB-member tripletschiee, simply because it works like a charm and is very well integrated in the cabin - modified by me to work together with my RC steering solution The 3-side tilting bed It is strongly inspired by the driven 3-side beds of eurobricks members EB-members barman and tripletschiee - many thanks to both of you for your very well done solutions! RC is completely my own solution and design, for steering as well as for propulsion The rear PTO pass-through is from EB member dr_spock. A very well done solution, works like a charm and the full modularity of the crane and the outriggers are preserved Flasing beacons are bought from EB member Zmei_gorini4 - integration in the cabin by me Improvements: PF switch is completely my own design Double compressor with offset airpumps is completely my own design steering fix is inspired by the solution of EB member Junkstyle Gio but modified by me better weight balance by placing the battery box with in the cabin is completely my own design replacing the M motor by a L motor is completely my own design Attachments: The 8848 style pneumatic scoop is 100% the design of EB member thomol (http://www.eurobrick...75#entry1164528) The pneumatic front loader is build based on the design of EB member Tim S. PTO driven mower and PTO driven street cleaner i have found here: http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=c and http://www.technic-d...odell=126&bid=d) Trailer with PTO driven bed is inspired by the 8063 trailer and by a trailer of EB member dr_spock. The clever coupling is from dr_spock. But the full PTO-gear train is completely my own MOD Edited January 8, 20169 yr by Kumbbl
January 7, 20169 yr WOW, that is an impressive description!!! :thumbup: I would say well done...!!! Maybe you should have added this to an existing topic, but not sure...
January 7, 20169 yr The best compliment I can pay is that I thought this was Jurgen's latest "Ultimate" MOD, until I read the first IMHO Thanks for showcasing the best of this set, and for an excellent documentation. I've got no excuses to get the set of storage now!
January 7, 20169 yr Great work! But front alxe have bag castor and thi is ot really good) once,i have this problem,however i biuld the new alxe it is like stol alxe,but with 0-(+3) castor degree if you intrested in it,please,the ldd file: https://vk.com/doc200977784_437185662?hash=f421957e3f4129746a&dl=4a08d7d7b81a9c02d5 P.S. sorry for my bad english,i'm don't know english well
January 7, 20169 yr Author Toni-23 - this sounds very good - thanks for sharing! One question though: does your new axle design require further modification of the chassis or does it fit into an unmodified chassis? If the latter one then i will probably build and test your new axle design - and if succeed then adding to my unimog posting as recommendation
January 7, 20169 yr Just wow, not only is the unimog itself awesome, but a very good description!! But I didn't see any bells or whistles :D
January 7, 20169 yr Looks great all in one place like this. I am going to update my tipping bed using your instructions
January 7, 20169 yr Wow, just wow. This is impressive.bthanks for your effort and sharing your creation with us. For me, I can assure you, it is most welcome. My Unimog is resting rather sadly on the top shelf, waiting to be finished. I was able to implement a working 3 way tipping bed about 15 month ago ( actually based on your post in the long 8110 thread). But I was never inspired enough to find a solution to fit all my ideas in its belly (dual auto compressor with tank, small bb, separate motor for the pto). I'll take you post as an impulse to finally finish it.
January 8, 20169 yr Great work. I hope to do something similar to this with my Unimog as it is currently lying on my shelf with parts missing
January 8, 20169 yr Cool! Thanks for the flowers! That makes me feel building the Unimog once again and put it into the shelf!
January 8, 20169 yr Author to fit all my ideas in its belly (dual auto compressor with tank, small bb, separate motor for the pto). I'll take you post as an impulse to finally finish it. I'm not sure if an auto-compressor is worth the needed effort. First i thought also i want to build an auto power cut off for the compressor but this would need a separate motor just for the compressor (plus the pneumatic cylinder plus PF switch for the auto power cut of) and with RC and tilting bed there remains not really much room available for this stuff. Even more important: With an airtank you have already some flexibility to run the pneumatics of the crane simultaneously with turning the crane (at least for some pneumatic movements) - to make a long story short: i have discarded the auto compressor and do not miss it.
January 8, 20169 yr Thanks for the credits ;) I fitted my U400 with two M-motor one for each pto and a M-motor for the double compressor with tank and autovalve. Furthermore a XL for drive and a Servo for steering... All parts are nicely placed and hidden ;) And I really love the autovalve... Edited January 8, 20169 yr by Pat-Ard
January 8, 20169 yr Toni-23 - this sounds very good - thanks for sharing! One question though: does your new axle design require further modification of the chassis or does it fit into an unmodified chassis? If the latter one then i will probably build and test your new axle design - and if succeed then adding to my unimog posting as recommendation so...i think yes,if this alxe don't fit greatly,i have v 2 ver.
January 8, 20169 yr Author Thanks for the credits ;) I fitted my U400 with two M-motor one for each pto and a M-motor for the double compressor with tank and autovalve. Furthermore a XL for drive and a Servo for steering... All parts are nicely placed and hidden ;) And I really love the autovalve... sounds great - do you still use mainly the original 8110 chassis or have you designed it new from scratch? pictures? ;-) so...i think yes,if this alxe don't fit greatly,i have v 2 ver. do you mean your axle version v2?`if yes, what are the differences? Is the performance of v2 better?
January 8, 20169 yr Yes, it's mainly based on the original chassis, changed the whole colorscheme to light and dark blueish grey. And some modifications were necessary to fit all the features. Added a integrated pneumatic hitch in the rear... Sorry, I don't have many pictures of the chassis, but here are some of the actual model: Here's a picture of the integrated pneumatic hitch: And a small video:
January 9, 20169 yr Author so...i think yes,if this alxe don't fit greatly,i have v 2 ver. your axle shown above can not work because you need at least on CV-joint for the steering drive-train... just 2 u-joint can not work when suspension is travelling... and with your current design you can not apply a CV-joint onto the axle direct before the rack... Furthermore your steering is no Ackermann...maybe i have an idea how to apply Ackermann as well as the CV-joint.. i will check my idea this weekend...
January 20, 20169 yr This is very nice , just rebuilding my unimog. What i am missing is a solution to use the riggers via pf or pneumatic. mayby also add the solution for the suspenion ? http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=102550 see post ImanoIBB. This is for the rear , don't know if there is one for the front. Many thanks to add them all in one post.
May 7, 20168 yr Sorry for bumping, hi jippen, if you are interested in a rigger system, i have been working in a stabilization bar that also works as a rigger, once i finish it i will post it in this topic: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1850
May 8, 20168 yr I've been away from Lego (both physically and digitally) for quite some time due to moving into a new home, so it took a while to discover this thread. Thanks for the credits for the 8848 style front bucket! If you're still thinking about changing the front axle to a better one you should try the one made by Nicjasno featuring good caster angle and better pivot points (see ). It makes huge improvements on the steering and is fun to buiild!
May 20, 20168 yr If there is anyone interested, i posted some mods for the axles and chassis, also added the LDD file if you want to build them too http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=57543&st=1875#entry2563781 (see the lower pictures).
May 21, 20168 yr Wow those several mods, new details and accessories are really impressive You've done a massive enhanced version! Top notch work!
July 11, 20177 yr On 7-1-2016 at 6:04 PM, Kumbbl said: Hi all, ... I know I'm late but this is truly amazing! Edited July 21, 20177 yr by Jim Removed entire quote
July 21, 20177 yr On 7/11/2017 at 7:35 AM, MattL600 said: I know I'm late but this is truly amazing! Please don't quote the entire post.
July 21, 20177 yr On 11-7-2017 at 1:35 PM, MattL600 said: I know I'm late but this is truly amazing! HI. Please don't bump a topic, just to say something is amazing. And please don't quote images or an entire (very long) post. Thanks! 6 hours ago, BrickbyBrickTechnic said: Please don't quote the entire post. While you are right, don't minimod the topic. Please use the report button. Also thanks Â
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