ZCerberus

Actually, it looks to me like it is just a 1/4 cylinder piece like this with printing or a sticker on it. The clips holding the cylinder on are standard clip pieces.

This is Derfel's guide, but in the spirit of sharing... another little tip when building lattice work on corners like Defel is showing below... Some times it is simply not possible or not as secure to use the brick with one knob when building the lattice work on a corner. When this is the case, I use one of these with two of these attached to the "internal" knobs. In addition to having both knobs on the same brick, it will also make the wall much stronger.

Thanks Ratshot. I still prefer to use "real" Lego, and it seems to me that a lot of the items on brickforge and brickarms are getting Lego versions in the collectible minifig series now. With that said, I do think those guns look good enough to be on the site for sale in their current state.

Not quite right... the musketeer is holding a sword called an "epee" I am pretty sure the pistol and the musket are "non Lego" and are from brickarms. I do not know if they are in production though.

Love it! Though I like the interior detailing of your castle Hink, Steve's curved tower has to be my favorite part. I do like your gate house as well. I briefly knew Steve when he was in Minnesota. I joined his LUG right before he left for greater things.

It looks better already! Good work ol'... err... relatively new chum!

Great use of the PotC and PoP torsos and minfig pieces into a non-pirates MOC. I think this would change some people's attitudes towards "fleshies" Look for this item to be... [bloggedcp][/bloggedcp]

With the ropes attached to the rudder, it is quite possible. I also noticed the anchors appear to be custom made and there looks like there is a little windlass that pulls them up.

110A Pirate fans, check out this sailing ship by Flickr member Legonardo Davidy! I like the colors and custom made sails (click the link to see other photos with the sails) and rigging. Check out Legonardo Dividy's photostream here. Look for this topic to be blogged soon! [bloggedcp][/bloggedcp]

Well the beam width on a big ship like this is probably WAY over 40 feet!! Though Horatio is right, that beam would be underwater, the ship wouldn't taper that quickly. If you used a scale like 1 stud is 1 foot, it is still far too "thin" at 24 studs right above the waterline for a "real ship". In fact I think the beam width on the Victory is something like 50 feet so it is likely a good 40+ feet at the waterline. Therefore, if you use something "realistic" for the height between the decks (so minifigs can stand in there etc.), the ship is going to end up looking too "tall". I wouldn't go all out and make the ship 40 studs wide at the waterline however because if your ship only has 4 or so studs between the gun ports, it is going to be far shorter than a realistic ship and as a result the ship will end up looking too "fat" AND too tall. I think I would rather have it look a little tall but sleek than too "fat". I would definatley try it at 24 and see how it looks. I wouldn't worry about scale accuracy too much, as this is a Lego fantasy ship, but try to keep the relative proportions in mind. No matter what happens, unless you go full scale (which is a major parts commitment) the ship will probably end up looking too long, too short, too tall... too something, but if two of the three dimensions (l, h, w) are relatively proportional, the ship will probably look pretty sweet with your technique for the siding!!!

Good work m'boy! It certainly looks sleek with the method you have used. I can tell already though that you are definatley going to want to make this ship wider! Also, a lot of the better looking "minifig illusion" scale ships adjust the height of the gun ports/decking to make the ship look like it sloops up on the bow and stern which is how a "real" ship looks.

Hooray! Now get MOCing so we have something to blog about!!!!

Only one of the houses has an interior, but they are built to be able to access the interiors, so that is definatley something I plan on doing. Several of the houses do have the interior floors tiled so they are part of the way there. I would also love to add a few of those "winter village" light bricks to one or two. I would love to do the whole roof in dark red, but simply do not have the parts. Plus I have a BUNCH of the regular red since Lego believed all houses should have red roofs for years. I think the dark red breaks it up a bit, but, you're right, it think it would look better with more dark red, or maybe even a hint of that lovely dark orange color. I LOVE that color, too bad it is so rare. With the way this house is built, it would not be easy to add shutters. I also noticed a lot of the "half timbered" style houses I see around here (the more "modern" ones at least) do not have shutters on the exterior at all. The windows are basically flush with the house and quite honestly are a bit boring. It won't hurt the MOCS for the windows to be fancier though. I did try to frame the windows in black. It looked TERRIBLE! The white really seemed like the best options with the framing being right against the windows as they were.

Another house for the collection. Big things of note here... brick/snot built windows on the bottom level, the bridge in the middle with more snot windows, and the red roof. I like the roof with the two shades of red and I actually think it works. Lego was so insistent on having red roofs, so I have quite a few of those bricks. I likely won't do a lot of red roofs, but at least I see that it CAN work. I don't like black with the white on the "lattice work" as much as dark brown or reddish brown, but I thought it would work better with the red roof. As always, thumbnails are links to bigger pics.

+1 fred67

I like this a lot! The cottage looks good and the scene is well staged. Very well done and the photos look quite good as well. For a few critiques... I would make the tree taller, it is so wide now that it would need to be taller. I would also add some additional greenery higher up. I wold also not use the trans green in there.

Wow. Jealous much? This is a great idea Derfel, I always try to get a look at some of your techniques to figure out exactly how you did some of these crazy things... now I won't have to work so hard. We use some very similar styles for the houses, but I am not much of a landscaper. I hope your coverage of that will greatly help when I finally get around to throwing down some grass on a MOC!

Overall, I am pleased with this set. However, it isn't as great a buy as MMV. I bought 3 or 4 MMVs since it was such a great set with great parts and I will likely only be picking up one of the joust.

I am interested in this opportunity. I am well over the required age. I troll the forum and C-P website regularly. I speak English fluently and my mother was an English teacher. As such, I know my grammar... my spelling on the other hand... I have solid computer technical skills though I have not worked specifically with the Visual Wordpress software or any HTML coding. I am positive I could pick it up however.

I was thinking of doing a corner type building much like this one. Nice picture.

More houses. I took them at night so they are not as nice as the ones I took before with the nice sunlight coming in. But oh well. Here are two more. Like I said, a little dull seeings how they are "middle houses" but I did try a few new techniques on them. As always, click the thumbs for bigger pics. And a shot of the new ones with one of the houses from wave 1. I have a few ideas for a couple of more extravagant models, but these got me back up and going on the work.

Update. 1) I am alive. 2) I finally moved! Further from the Mall of America and therefore the Lego store, but into a MUCH larger building space. 3) I do not have a work bench yet (built a "display" table, but haven't gotten around to a bench yet) so the Phantom III is still on hold. 4) I did, however, get the building "itch" and have made 2 more village houses. (and have "bases" for two more) They are more boring than the previous ones because they are "middle" of the block type and use more or less the same techniques I have already been using. I am going to need to switch over to some new techniques for newer builds and I have a few ideas for a few more houses that I will begin working on tonight. Expect pictures of the two "new" village houses soon.

I think Lego is playing a mind game with us by adding Market Street to the mini modular since many of us did not consider Market Street as in the same series as the others until now!

Simple builds are often the hardest... selecting that just perfect part is a real challenge. With that said, I agree with some of the earlier comments, I think the legs are too short. As was mentioned, the problem really is that it is "missing" a joint. I can't really picture your version "walking" like I can a version with that extra joint. I do like the "body" section though, it really capture the essence of the vehicle.

I am NOT a huge NinjaGo guy, though I have liked all the cool pearl gold elements that have been introduced. I, however, did notice one piece in these new sets I am in LOVE with. That is a new profile brick... the texture on the brick is... well... BRICK as in like a brickwall. Take a look at # 9440 to see what I am talking about. New profile brick ON!! Edit: Looks like Siren ot Titans and Kris Kelvin already brought those awesome sauce bricks up. Credit to you peeps!